Marrakesh to Merzouga: The Classic Desert Route
A day-by-day guide to the road from Marrakesh to the Sahara dunes of Erg Chebbi: the Atlas pass, kasbahs, gorges, desert camps and what to pack.
The journey from Marrakesh to the dunes of Erg Chebbi at Merzouga is one of the great road trips. It's a long drive of around 9 hours without stops, so most travellers split it over two days. The scenery changes constantly: High Atlas passes, earthen kasbahs, palm oases, red gorges and, finally, the orange sand of the Sahara. I grew up in Morocco's desert region, and this is still my favourite road.
Day 1: Over the Atlas to Aït Benhaddou and beyond
Leave Marrakesh in the morning and climb into the High Atlas on the Tizi n'Tichka pass. At about 2,260 metres it's one of the highest road passes in North Africa. Expect hairpin bends, Berber villages clinging to the slopes and plenty of viewpoints worth a stop.
On the far side, take a detour to Aït Benhaddou, the fortified earthen village listed by UNESCO and seen in many films. Walk up to the granary at the top for the view, then continue to Ouarzazate or, better still, the palm groves of Skoura or the Dades Valley for the night.
Day 2: Gorges, oases and the road to the dunes
Follow the "Road of a Thousand Kasbahs" east through the Valley of Roses to the Dades Gorges and their famous zig-zag road. A little further on, the Todra Gorge near Tinghir narrows between towering rock walls, a lovely place to stretch your legs.
In the afternoon the landscape flattens into stony desert. Pass through Erfoud and Rissani, and then the dunes of Erg Chebbi rise on the horizon. Arrive in Merzouga in time for a camel ride at sunset and a night in a desert camp under the stars.
Tip: Book your desert camp before you leave. Your driver takes you to the meeting point at the edge of the dunes, and the camp team takes you on by camel or 4x4.
Day 3: Back to Marrakesh, or on to Fes
Wake early for sunrise over the dunes. Then you have two options:
- Return to Marrakesh: a long day back west, or split it with a night in the Dades or Ouarzazate.
- Continue to Fes: drive north through the Ziz Valley palm groves, the Middle Atlas and the cedar forests near Ifrane. It's a long but beautiful day, and you avoid repeating the same road.
What to pack for the desert
- Layers: desert days can be hot, but nights are cold, especially from November to February.
- A scarf or cheche to protect against sun and wind-blown sand. You can buy one along the way.
- Sunglasses, sunscreen and a hat.
- A small overnight bag for the camp, so you can leave your large luggage in the car.
- Cash in dirhams for small purchases, tips and cafés in villages.
Every one of these stops can be adjusted. With a private driver you choose where to sleep, how long to stay and which detours to take. See more places in southern Morocco →
